Brennan Swain on top of the rock that proclaims Mt Everest Base Camp. Photo provided by Brennan Swain
BY DEB AND TIM SMITH
So what do you do after you and your buddies have conquered the mountain and climbed to the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro? Well, according to Wheatland/Scottsville legend, Brennan Swain, the obvious follow-up choice is to ascend to the base camp at Mt. Everest. We are here this week to share that tale. Brennan last graced the front page of the Sentinel on January 16, so please allow us to click on the refresh arrow.
When Brennan informed us of his impending Mt. Everest escapade, we were obviously impressed and intrigued and with the Sentinel being the official paper of his hometown, our journalists’ antennas went up as we sensed a story. Before we get to the Brennan Swain sojourn to a spot very high, on the other side of the world, please allow us to reset the table on the background of this globetrotting relative of ours.
Our connection began while working on our most recent book which was called Royally Regaling Greater Rochester ~ Taking Stock of the ROC. We decided it might be interesting to add a component on the “Most Famous Graduates by High School,” surveying that topic on a local basis.
As we were wending our way around Monroe County, we had an interesting hit when we arrived at Wheatland-Chili. For some high schools that “Most Famous” designation can be fairly obvious. For example, Fairport has Philip Seymour Hoffman, McQuaid has Danny Wegman, and Mercy has Abby Wambach. But for many high schools there was not a name that immediately popped, and we began Google searches to generate one hometown hero for every high school in the county.
Traversing the alphabet, as we wended our way to the Wheatland-Chili Wikipedia page, the first name to appear under the “Alumni” heading is Brennan Swain with three accomplishments denoted… Brennan was “The Amazing Race, Season 1 winner/actor/1989 Valedictorian.” As those credentials flash onto the screen, here is the script of the conversation as it went down in our home here in Mendon…
Tim: Brennan Swain is my cousin.
Deb: (Incredulously) No way.
Tim: Oh yes, absolutely.
Deb: No freakin’ way!
Tim: Let me tell you the story.
First off, we’ll dial down the deal a bit with the clarification that “second cousin” would be the actual connection. Tim’s mother and Brennan’s grandmother were sisters but Tim and Brennan had never met as adults. It seemed, however, like fate was nudging us so we decided what the hell, let’s roll the dice and reach out.
Brennan is now a high-power attorney working and living in Los Angeles. We were able to track down an email address and send a message connecting the dots on our family tree and explaining how he came up in our research. We were so excited to receive the exhilerating response which led to Brennan and his Mom, Linda being in Mendon having dinner with us at the Cottage Hotel just a week later.
So let’s seize the Sentinel moment, and share the story of how someone who grew up right here in our area became one of the most important names in reality TV show history. It was in the year 2000 when the somewhat surprising smash success of the show Survivor served to jumpstart the reality show surge in TV popularity.
Right on the heels of that hit came The Amazing Race which debuted in 2001. The concept of the contest was that 11 teams, of two people each, competed in a race around the world with the winners taking home a cool $1 million dollars. So now that we have reintroduced Brennan to our readers, let’s take a look at the log line of his latest adventure.
First off, you have to wonder what your itinerary looks like when you’re traveling from the west coast of California to the top of the world at Mt. Everest. “I was originally flying Cathay Pacific from LA to Hong Kong and then on to Kathmandu,” Brennan told us. “However, Cathay Pacific almost derailed my trip when they canceled my flight from Hong Kong to Kathmandu about two weeks before the trip due to political unrest in Nepal. I had to reschedule the Hong Kong to Kathmandu leg on Nepal Airlines. I also just missed Super Typhoon Ragasa, which hit Hong Kong a few days before I connected.” This would cause problems later on, as you’ll see below.
The schedule change resulted in a 13-hour layover in Hong Kong. But as we’ve come to know with Brennan, one man’s travel nightmare turns into another man’s next amazing adventure. “So, I left the airport,” Brennan told us, “and visited the Tian Tan Buddha on Lantau Island. It took me 2 bus rides, a ride in a gondola, and climbing 268 stairs. It felt like an Amazing Race task.” Somewhat ironically, The Amazing Race had just visited the island last year during its season 37.
The Tian Tan Buddha, sometimes referred to more generically as “The Big Buddha,” is a major Hong Kong landmark. And the word “big” in the title is well-warranted. The bronze figure of Buddha stands 112 feet tall and weighs 280 tons!
We’re going to take a day-by-day approach to this adventure, starting each day with an overview title and, once the ascent begins, sharing the details of elevations, distances, and times.
Day 1 (30 Sept.) ~ Arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu, Nepal
Brennan was making the climb with two friends, actually the same men he had climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro with in early 2020. Kilimanjaro, located in the country of Tanzania, is the highest mountain in Africa so for Brennan and his crew this Everest gig was not their first rodeo.
Upon arrival, they were picked up at the airport by representatives of their trekking/guide company which was called the Nepal Hiking Team. As you might suspect, you don’t just show up at the base of Mt. Everest and start trudging up the hill; there’s a method to the madness which must be carefully orchestrated and administered. The group’s individual guide was a 22-year-old Nepali man named Bishal who spoke excellent English.
Day 2 (01 Oct.) ~ Free day in Kathmandu
Brennan’s group had one day in Kathmandu to pick up any last-minute items before heading out on the trek. This turned out to be particularly important for one of his friends whose bags did not arrive due to a tight flight connection in Istanbul. Subsequently he had to buy all new gear in Kathmandu. At day’s end, everyone returned to their hotel to prepare for the next day’s early rise.
Day 3 (02 Oct.) ~ Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (elevation: 8699 feet), walking distance: 5 miles, duration: 3 hours
The next morning alarms in Nepal rang out at 4:00 am to enable Brennan to board a prop plane with a couple dozen passengers to make the 45-minute flight to the Lukla Airport. Turns out the airport closest to the highest point in the world happens to also be the airport with the lowest safety ranking, and it also turns out there is a logical connection between these two facts.
Plane passengers need a little luck at Lukla because of its short, high-altitude runway, mountainous surroundings, and lack of a “go-around procedure,” meaning that if something is off with the landing the pilot does not have the option of pulling up, going around, and attempting the landing again. That option is unavailable because if the pilot pulls up out of the landing in Lukla, he flies the plane straight into the side of a mountain! Nowhere in the world is it more important to stick the landing than Lukla.
After surviving the plane flight, everyone hikes through a light rain to the village of Phakding. They’re carrying 15-pound day packs with most of the weight being the water needed to meet the 4-liters-per-day hydration requirement. The entourage is assisted by “porters” who each carry two forty-pound duffle bags with the hikers’ gear.
Every night, during this portion of the trek, hikers stay in a local teahouse. Brennan described these as “basically a no-nonsense lodge run by a local family. Think plywood walls, tiny beds with thin mattresses, and a common dining room. Rooms are bare – usually two beds, no heat, no insulation, and you’ll hear every cough, snore and zipper from your neighbors. Toilets range from rudimentary Western-style to a squat-hole in the floor. You pay for meals (dal bhat [lentils & boiled rice], noodles, eggs) and they make their money when you eat there, not for the room itself. The food was covered as part of the payment to Nepal Hiking Team.) It’s simple and rough around the edges, but it’s part of the charm: hot tea, cold rooms, and million-dollar mountain views. Some of the teahouses had stoves in the dining room. Higher on the mountain – above the tree line – the dining rooms were warmed by a yak-dung stove.”
They were advised not to eat any meat, so everyone became vegetarians for the trek. “My buddy and I stayed past dinner,” Brennan told us, “and had some drinks with all of the guides who were celebrating a big Nepali festival.
Day 4 (03 Oct.) ~ Phakding to Namche Bazaar (elevation: 11,283 feet), walking distance: 7 miles, duration: 6 hours
Hiking through more Sherpa villages, this day brings some beautiful sights in Sagarmatha National Park where they cross the Hillary Bridge. About this Brennan wrote, “Lots of stairs today. Stairs sound like they’d be easy, but they’re actually much more difficult than just regular trail hiking. One, because they’re uneven and made of stones, and two, because you use your quads and knees a lot more than expected.”
Their destination of Namche Bazaar is eventful for a couple of reasons. Brennan described it as the most bustling of the towns that dot this trail route with multiple shops, restaurants and teahouses. On this day, Brennan’s trio also connects with a trio from Australia, with whom they become companions for the remainder of the sojourn. The Australians are comprised of a husband and wife in their 40’s and a younger companion in his 20’s.
That night they visited the world’s highest Irish pub and even watched some soccer on TV. Make that the world’s highest Irish pub and sports bar!
Day 5 (04 Oct.) ~ Acclimatization Day – Hike to Everest View Hotel (12,995 feet), walking distance: 2 miles, duration: 3-4 hours
They hiked through a pouring rain on this day with a highlight being the sight of a statue of Tenzing Norgay. Not a name familiar to most, but it’s one that’s part of history. When the summit of Mt. Everest was first reached in 1953, Norgay was one of two Sherpas who accompanied New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary.
And we’re sure some of you are wondering, “What exactly is acclimatization?” Brennan provided the explanation that…
An acclimatization day is a rest-and-adapt day. You stay in the same camp overnight, you do a short hike to a higher point (“climb high”), then return to the same camp to sleep (“sleep low”). This gives your body time to produce more red blood cells, improve oxygen delivery, and reduce the risk of altitude sickness. It’s not about lounging around – it’s strategic. If you just keep charging upward, altitude eventually hits you like a truck. Acclimatization days slow the ascent just enough for your body to keep up, which dramatically cuts down your odds of headaches, nausea, or worse.
Day 6 (05 Oct.) ~ Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (12,660 feet), walking distance: 6.5 miles, duration: 7 hours
This was an even rainier day as the crew trekked through rhododendron forests and Sherpa villages to Tengboche, known for its monastery and mountain views. “When we arrived, soaking wet,” Brennan told us, “I connected my phone to wifi and was bombarded by texts, dms and emails from friends, family and clients asking if we were okay. It turns out there was a huge storm that hit higher on the mountain. We were unaware. That’s why the wind and rain had hit us so hard. Coincidentally, the storm was the remnants of Super Typhoon Ragasa.”
So the reason for the bombardment of messages from back home was that here in the states everyone was seeing headlines like the New York Post’s “Hundreds trapped on Mt. Everest by massive storm. Desperate rescue efforts begin.” We were amongst the many who had seen the media coverage and ours was amongst the concerned messages sent. It turned out that the worst of the storm was on the Tibet side of the mountain. That being said, the trek on the Nepal side was made much more difficult as it snowed lower on the mountain than is typical at that time of year.
Day 7 (06 Oct.) ~ Tengboche to Dingboche (14,464 feet), walking distance: 7 miles, duration: 5 hours
After visiting the Tengboche monastery, the trek continued with a much-welcomed rain free day; the sun was even shining. They passed other hikers (ascending and descending), as well as yaks and donkeys carrying gear. They also encountered locals with horses, which can be hired if someone gets sick or can’t make it any further. One of the Aussies got food poisoning and had to hire a horse for the afternoon.
They passed the highest Sherpa settlement, so no more natives at this time. They also passed the treeline, so there’s no more vegetation, and they finally reach the snow.
Day 8 (07 Oct.) ~ Acclimatization Day – Hike to Nagarjun Hill (16,732 feet), then descend back to Dingboche, walking distance: 3.5 miles, duration: 4-5 hours
This acclimatization day was made much more difficult because of the snowfall. Regarding the situation Brennan acknowledged, “Luckily, our guide had us purchase microspikes in Namche, which helped immensely. We saw other teams without them and they were slipping and sliding all over the place, especially when descending.”
Because this day is fairly short, we’re going to seize the opportunity to explain the concept of the Nepali “prayer flag,” because it comes up in the next entry as well as in Brennan’s closing words at the end of this article. As you trek through the breathtaking landscapes of the Himilayas, you’ll notice vibrant prayer flags fluttering in the wind. These colorful flags, strung along mountain ridges, peaks, and sacred places, add a vibrant splash of color to the often stark and rugged terrain. So they’re both beautiful and spiritual.
Day 9 (08 Oct.) ~ Dingboche to Lobuche (16,105 feet), walking distance: 7 miles, duration: 5 hours
This day was beautiful before lunch, but the clouds moved in and it snowed hard for a couple hours after lunch. There is a sobering moment at Thukla Pass during this leg where there are memorials for fallen climbers. It’s an area filled with cairns, stupas and prayer flags honoring climbers who have died on the mountain. “We saw the memorials for Scott Fischer and Rob Hall,” Brennan told us, “who died in the 1996 disaster that was the subject of the 2015 movie Everest.”
The thought that occurs to us at this point is that “how could our cousin see that movie and think, ‘Gee that looks like something I might wanna try.’” But as we’ve seen in writing about Brennan in both our Amazing Race story, as well as this Everest Adventure, the dude is undaunted and frighteningly fearless.
Day 10 (09 Oct.) ~ Lobuche to Gorakshep (16,990 feet) to Everest Base Camp (17,594 feet) and back to Gorakshep , walking distance: 9 miles, duration: 8 hours
“We started early due to this being our longest day,” Brennan told us. “The sun wasn’t up yet and it was 8 degrees out. We trekked through the Khumbu glacier to Gorakshep where we dropped off some of our gear (because we were staying there that night).” So then they set off for Everest Base Camp.
They skipped lunch and got a head start on a lot of the other teams. The trek was difficult due to the thin air as they hit about 18,000 feet before descending slightly to arrive at base camp. Pictures were taken on the famous rock at EBC. An advantage obtained by the early start and the skipping of lunch, was that there were only a few others there when they arrived. The picture taking process can be cold and time consuming if multiple groups arrive at the same time.
At that point they descended back to Gorakshep to spend the evening in a yak-dung warmed common room before a night in the worst of all the teahouses. The entire building was on a slant! No room service available.
Day 11 (10 Oct.) ~ Gorakshep – helicopter to Lukla and a second helicopter to Kathmandu
Regarding the helicopters, Brennan told us that, “When my buddies and I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro a few years ago, the least memorable part of the trip was the descent. The descent from base camp is the same route as the climb. So, we decided to save a few days (it’s a four-day descent) and we took a helicopter down. This allowed us to visit Chitwan National Park and go on a safari, among other adventures, and then visit a beautiful lakeside city with spectacular mountain views named Pokhora.”
Brennan also remarked about how much he enjoyed having family and friends follow along as he posted daily real-time stories on his Instagram page. Brennan mentioned to us, “I was surprised how many people wrote asking me to post more and how they were excited every day to check in and see what happens next.” He mentioned that he’s planning similar adventures in the future, so if you have any interest in following along, his Instagram handle is @BrennanSwain.
We’re going to close this piece out with Brennan’s Facebook post as he was departing Nepal. But before we do that, we really need to “introduce” you to his father Danny Swain for you to be able to grasp the significance of Brennan’s closing words. Danny married Tim’s cousin Linda Crane (Brennan’s mom), and for locals, it was Linda’s father who started the Crane’s Collision auto repair shop on Bragg St. (between HF and Lima).
Danny was 10 years older than us, a Wheatland-Chili grad, and Tim absolutely idolized him as a kid. He was a stellar student, a star soccer play, and a musician playing in a rock group called the Sportsmen (who used to play the old TJ’s Lounge), the current Cosmo’s, on West Main St. in HF. And oh yeah, did we mention he was also a race car driver! So that’s the background on the “Danny” reference in Brennan’s closing thoughts…
Everest Base Camp Day! Still trying to put into words what the Everest Base Camp trek meant to me. I’ve traveled a lot, but this one hit different. The altitude, the cold, the early mornings – it pushed me outside my comfort zone, which I love. But somewhere between the prayer flags, the mountain air, and the quiet moments above the clouds, I found something deeper. This journey reminded me why I love to travel: it challenges you, humbles you, and changes you.
Sometimes you have to go to the edge of the world to find a new piece of yourself. And that’s just what I did!
After losing my dad recently, I’m sad I can’t tell him all about it. But, like Obi Wan, his presence is always with me. We went to a Nepali restaurant the final night in Kathmandu where they were playing traditional music. They played only one western style song – Danny Boy. Dad was definitely there.
And we know how proud Danny was looking down upon the whole experience from Heaven!
